Denali Transmit #10

Back in Camp IV about 45 min ago after picking up our cache at 16,200'.  Today went a lot better on the ridge and my god the views were spectuacular and the ridge was so fun.  Sometimes on a knife edge, sometimes 3rd class scrambling on granite in crampons.  Anyway, we are eating and drinking so we can be prepared for a summit attempt tomorrow morning around 10 am.  It's too cold to start any earlier with temps being in the minus twenties.  We're excited and are focused on tomorrow.  We have our fingers crossed for the weather.  

Denali Transmit #9

Absolutely brutal but spectacular day.  We are in Camp IV after a 8 hr 15 min day.  I don't even know where to begin, but going up the headwall with a full pack, leading the technical sections on the West Buttress, and winding away on its ridge while snowing some and sunny some.  Barely ate anything all day but we are thrilled to be in our tent resting.  Did I mention we are fried?  Anyway, tomorrow we go back on ridge to pick up our cache, but it'll be a much shorter day. And then Friday, we may have a go at the summit.

Denali Transmit #8

Today we decided on a rest day here at Camp III and tomorrow we move to our final camp, Camp IV.  Then we may take an active recovery day up there on the following day, and pick up our cache a little lower before making a summit attempt Friday.  Hope the weather holds a bit.  Tomorrow there is an 80% chance of snow, but who really knows.  I'm ready to make a final push up to the summit.  I've paired down all unnecessary gear for the next few days to keep the weight lower.  

Denali Transmit #7

May 28, 2018

Got back into camp after caching at Washburn's Thumb @ 16,200', our final one.  Today was the start of the real alpine climbing.  Fixed lines up a 50 degree ice slope and descending was pretty wild with magnificent views.  The weather continues to be decent minus the sub-zero nights, but we don't know what each day brings.  I'll keep you posted on our plans.  For now, tomorrow would be a move to Camp IV at 17,200' or we could get stuck here with the weather.  Barring something crazy, we could have a summit attempt this week.

Denali Transmit #6

May 27, 2018

Nice active recovery day today.  Once the sun came out I felt a lot better.  We picked up our cache just now and are back in camp.  Tomorrow we head up the West Buttress headwall to cache food and fuel for Camp IV, our final one before our summit push.  We've been very forutnate wtih the weather though that's going to change Tuesday as we get hit with the first storm of our expedition.  So we may be in Camp III a bit before we even have a chance.  Climbers are being turned back due to cold temps and hight winds.  Camp IV has a high of -25F.  Brutally cold but I hope something positive happens perhaps late in the week.

Denali Transmit #5

Long day, phew!  Moved to Camp III at 14,200' and spent the last three hours building our campsite.  We are spent!  We finally are in the tent.  Now we need to rest before melting more snow and boilding water to make dinner.  Stunning views from camp albeit cold at times.  Digging a lot of snow does warm one up though!  Tomorrow is an active recovery day where we go back and pick up our cache at 13,600' and bring it to camp.  

Denali Transmit #4

Back in the tent, melting snow after a cache up to 13,600'.  Absolutely beautiful day though the morning was frigid.  Tomorrow if the weather holds we move to 14 camp (Camp 3 @ 14,200').  We get to ditch the sleds and snowshoes too as we move from Camp 2.  We are moving well though sometimes I'm a bit impatient as we're ascending.  Being on a roped team takes a different kind of attitude and I'm adjusting.  Go Cavs!!

Denali Transmit #4

We woke up with 1.5 feet of fresh dry powder in camp this morning.  Shoveled a lot and after a while we went back down and got our cache in a whiteout.  Then hauled it back up to Camp II.  This was our "active rest" day.  Tomorrow we cache to Camp III at 14k ft.  

Denali Transmit #3

May 23, 2018

We made it to Camp 2 at 11k feet.  We've finished setting up camp and are now melting snow and making dinner.  Tomorrow is an active rest day where we go back down a little and retrieve our cache.  My face is a little on fire even with all the protection and sunscreen, but that's to be expected.

May 22, 2018

We are back in Camp 1 after caching to 10k ft.  Great weather so far.  Tomorrow we are moving to Camp 2 at 11k feet.  Then we finally get to ditch our sleds in a couple days thank god.  Heavy loads!  

May 21, 2018

Made it to Camp 1 about an hour ago.  We got a late start as it's been a whirlwind.  Great weather but tired.  Who won the Cavs Celtics game?

Denali Transmit #2

May 21, 2018

Made it on the glacier.  Surreal experience.  This place is mystical.  Getting prepared for the day.  We may spend one more night at BC or move to C1.

Denali Transmit #1

I am in the Sheldon Air hanger re-organizing, purchasing fuel, snow wands, and weighing all gear. It's been a whirlwind so far. After landing in Anchorage this morning at 430, we shuttled two hours to Talkeetna, and got through the 1+ hour NPS orientation (shit cans included) off the standby list. All this by 1130 am. The weather these weeks has been poor and flights to and from the glacier are few and far between, with up to 6 days of waiting in either direction. Along with climbers being unfortunate with the weather, keeping most tent-bound. However we have had a break. We were told upon arriving at the hanger that a short weather window has opened and today is our opportunity. We fly tonight to Kahiltna Glacier.

Idyllwild

My good friend made his way over west from Colorado this past weekend and we headed up to Idyllwild early Friday morning.  It's not a place I've spent much time in besides passing through to climb a few times at Tahquitz rock.  My first memory of it was when I bailed on the PCT in 2009 and camped at the San Jacinto State Park reading some random Michael Crichton book I picked up along the way, though I don't know which one it was.  The PCT wasn't as exciting as I hoped it would be; the JMT spoiled me, though in hindsight I didn't give it a chance and I wasn't mentally prepared for that type of journey.  One day I will walk this long path.  Ironically it's the perfect time of year to see the herd of PCTers pass through and there was no shortage of them.
We climbed a 5.7 five-pitch route called Fingertrip on Friday, which was really fun and heady at times.  Climbing a lot more trad and outdoors this year has helped my head game tremendously and it showed on the run-out slab sections of pitch 2 and 5.  Last time we climbed out here we had an "epic" and didn't get back to the car until midnight.  This time was much different.  My plan Saturday was to run an 18.5 mile "lollipop" loop to the top of Mt. San Jacinto via Deer Springs Trail while my friend put in another day of climbing.  I'm somewhat ashamed to admit I had never summit San Jacinto and I was thrilled to be able to ascend a peak of it's stature on all new terrain.  It was a great loop.

Joel leading 3rd pitch

End of route: Final belay from top of 5th pitch

Shelter built by the CCC in 1933.  There were four bunks.

One of several USGS markers from the 1800's at the summit of San Jacinto

San Gorgonio (11, 503') from San Jacinto (10,833')

Lily Rock (Tahquitz) coming down from Wellman Divide