What took one hour and a half by vehicle took eleven hours and forty minutes on foot. What I’m talking about is the spectacular east-west traverse of Zion National Park. By linking fifty miles of existing trails within the park one can connect both ends of the park and complete this journey in a day, if so inclined. That’s what Dave and I set out to do the morning of the seventh of April. Departing a little after first light we set off on the East Rim Trail and meandered our way through unspoiled canyons and colorful mesas. The descent into the Virgin River-carved Zion Canyon transcends time and no matter what century one happens upon it, one cannot help but deeply feel the goodness and beauty of nature. A sense of spiritual belonging overwhelms and a deep happiness results. These are the moments I live for.
After filling up for water at the Grotto the climb resumes past the tourist infested and paved Angel’s Landing trail. Just as quickly it becomes peaceful again and excitement abounds for the unknown territory ahead. After climbing up to the West Rim and Telephone Canyon trail junction, the water flow at Cabin Spring was non-existent so we continued on the West Rim Trail. After passing one or two groups of like-minded folk, though not sure if they could make it all the way (they were succulent), we soon came upon the stunning views of the Great West Canyon. The thin partial cloud cover let in just enough light to stop me in my tracks several times. Another perfect moment. Sadly prying away we continued to Potato Hollow where another pathetic spring failed to materialize. A hot and uninspiring gradual climb out of Horse Pasture Plateau found me mildly desperate for water. A 0.3 mile side trail took us to Sawmill Spring. What a misnomer of a name. Cattle-trampled grass with pockets of water is what constitutes this “spring.” But I was in need of water, unsure of how far the next reliable source was, so I filled my bladder with a mix of water and sediment using Dave’s hard plastic bottle as there was no other way to procure it. Though I haven’t treated water in the backcountry in over ten years I was not confident with this choice, but what is one to do. Fortunately I didn’t drink more than 10-20 ounces as a cold spring in Wildcat Canyon revealed itself and was happily devoured. What fresh spring water can do to the psyche! We continued with renewed vigor and made good time to the Connector Trail which offered splendid views North and South Guardian Angel. Arriving at Hop Valley Trail we took that north through overgrazed cattle land running on beach-like sand. That felt slow and tedious but soon we entered Hop Valley and this narrow grassy valley, surrounded by red cliffs, was a special place. We crossed and re-crossed the same stream a dozen times working our way toward the well lit Kolob Canyon seen ahead in a narrow canyon window. It felt like I was discovering this fairy-tale like region for the first time. Then all at once we left this flat valley and were suddenly climbing amongst trees, with green fern-like plants everywhere. We descended on technical trail to La Verkin Creek and Kolob Canyon. Pleased with the way we were progressing and with the cooler weather, I drank and filled a flask of water straight from the creek (Dave doesn’t drink unfiltered water) and it was slightly mineral tasting I will admit. As I learned later, I should have actually looked for the spring next to the big creek! With the final 6.5 miles upon us we kept a steady running pace as the clouds started to get thicker and darker. We heard rolling thunder off to the west and soon a few drops made their presence felt. Those few drops soon became a steady hard rain with wind. With only several miles left, we kept running steady without wanting to stop to don jackets. The buttes just to the east were partially shrouded in sheets of rain but the beauty of this place couldn’t be truly hidden. I was in awe and I slightly disappointed not to have taken more photos during this section, but with the camera wet, it will have to be preserved in my minds eye. The last mile was sloppy but soon enough arrived at Lee Pass soaked but on a high. It felt like five days wrapped into one and it was hard to believe we started almost 11 hours and 40 minutes ago. It’s a run I’ll never forget.
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| Angel's Landing |
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| Great Western Canyon |
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| Wild Turkeys |
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| Hop Valley |
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| Western Terminus |
