Denali Transmit #10

Back in Camp IV about 45 min ago after picking up our cache at 16,200'.  Today went a lot better on the ridge and my god the views were spectuacular and the ridge was so fun.  Sometimes on a knife edge, sometimes 3rd class scrambling on granite in crampons.  Anyway, we are eating and drinking so we can be prepared for a summit attempt tomorrow morning around 10 am.  It's too cold to start any earlier with temps being in the minus twenties.  We're excited and are focused on tomorrow.  We have our fingers crossed for the weather.  

Denali Transmit #9

Absolutely brutal but spectacular day.  We are in Camp IV after a 8 hr 15 min day.  I don't even know where to begin, but going up the headwall with a full pack, leading the technical sections on the West Buttress, and winding away on its ridge while snowing some and sunny some.  Barely ate anything all day but we are thrilled to be in our tent resting.  Did I mention we are fried?  Anyway, tomorrow we go back on ridge to pick up our cache, but it'll be a much shorter day. And then Friday, we may have a go at the summit.

Denali Transmit #8

Today we decided on a rest day here at Camp III and tomorrow we move to our final camp, Camp IV.  Then we may take an active recovery day up there on the following day, and pick up our cache a little lower before making a summit attempt Friday.  Hope the weather holds a bit.  Tomorrow there is an 80% chance of snow, but who really knows.  I'm ready to make a final push up to the summit.  I've paired down all unnecessary gear for the next few days to keep the weight lower.  

Denali Transmit #7

May 28, 2018

Got back into camp after caching at Washburn's Thumb @ 16,200', our final one.  Today was the start of the real alpine climbing.  Fixed lines up a 50 degree ice slope and descending was pretty wild with magnificent views.  The weather continues to be decent minus the sub-zero nights, but we don't know what each day brings.  I'll keep you posted on our plans.  For now, tomorrow would be a move to Camp IV at 17,200' or we could get stuck here with the weather.  Barring something crazy, we could have a summit attempt this week.

Denali Transmit #6

May 27, 2018

Nice active recovery day today.  Once the sun came out I felt a lot better.  We picked up our cache just now and are back in camp.  Tomorrow we head up the West Buttress headwall to cache food and fuel for Camp IV, our final one before our summit push.  We've been very forutnate wtih the weather though that's going to change Tuesday as we get hit with the first storm of our expedition.  So we may be in Camp III a bit before we even have a chance.  Climbers are being turned back due to cold temps and hight winds.  Camp IV has a high of -25F.  Brutally cold but I hope something positive happens perhaps late in the week.

Denali Transmit #5

Long day, phew!  Moved to Camp III at 14,200' and spent the last three hours building our campsite.  We are spent!  We finally are in the tent.  Now we need to rest before melting more snow and boilding water to make dinner.  Stunning views from camp albeit cold at times.  Digging a lot of snow does warm one up though!  Tomorrow is an active recovery day where we go back and pick up our cache at 13,600' and bring it to camp.  

Denali Transmit #4

Back in the tent, melting snow after a cache up to 13,600'.  Absolutely beautiful day though the morning was frigid.  Tomorrow if the weather holds we move to 14 camp (Camp 3 @ 14,200').  We get to ditch the sleds and snowshoes too as we move from Camp 2.  We are moving well though sometimes I'm a bit impatient as we're ascending.  Being on a roped team takes a different kind of attitude and I'm adjusting.  Go Cavs!!