We woke up with 1.5 feet of fresh dry powder in camp this morning. Shoveled a lot and after a while we went back down and got our cache in a whiteout. Then hauled it back up to Camp II. This was our "active rest" day. Tomorrow we cache to Camp III at 14k ft.
May 24, 2018
May 23, 2018
Denali Transmit #3
May 23, 2018
We made it to Camp 2 at 11k feet. We've finished setting up camp and are now melting snow and making dinner. Tomorrow is an active rest day where we go back down a little and retrieve our cache. My face is a little on fire even with all the protection and sunscreen, but that's to be expected.
May 22, 2018
We are back in Camp 1 after caching to 10k ft. Great weather so far. Tomorrow we are moving to Camp 2 at 11k feet. Then we finally get to ditch our sleds in a couple days thank god. Heavy loads!
May 21, 2018
Made it to Camp 1 about an hour ago. We got a late start as it's been a whirlwind. Great weather but tired. Who won the Cavs Celtics game?
Denali Transmit #2
May 21, 2018
Made it on the glacier. Surreal experience. This place is mystical. Getting prepared for the day. We may spend one more night at BC or move to C1.
May 20, 2018
Denali Transmit #1
I am in the Sheldon Air hanger re-organizing, purchasing fuel, snow wands, and weighing all gear. It's been a whirlwind so far. After landing in Anchorage this morning at 430, we shuttled two hours to Talkeetna, and got through the 1+ hour NPS orientation (shit cans included) off the standby list. All this by 1130 am. The weather these weeks has been poor and flights to and from the glacier are few and far between, with up to 6 days of waiting in either direction. Along with climbers being unfortunate with the weather, keeping most tent-bound. However we have had a break. We were told upon arriving at the hanger that a short weather window has opened and today is our opportunity. We fly tonight to Kahiltna Glacier.
May 7, 2018
Idyllwild
My good friend made his way over west from Colorado this past weekend and we headed up to Idyllwild early Friday morning. It's not a place I've spent much time in besides passing through to climb a few times at Tahquitz rock. My first memory of it was when I bailed on the PCT in 2009 and camped at the San Jacinto State Park reading some random Michael Crichton book I picked up along the way, though I don't know which one it was. The PCT wasn't as exciting as I hoped it would be; the JMT spoiled me, though in hindsight I didn't give it a chance and I wasn't mentally prepared for that type of journey. One day I will walk this long path. Ironically it's the perfect time of year to see the herd of PCTers pass through and there was no shortage of them.
We climbed a 5.7 five-pitch route called Fingertrip on Friday, which was really fun and heady at times. Climbing a lot more trad and outdoors this year has helped my head game tremendously and it showed on the run-out slab sections of pitch 2 and 5. Last time we climbed out here we had an "epic" and didn't get back to the car until midnight. This time was much different. My plan Saturday was to run an 18.5 mile "lollipop" loop to the top of Mt. San Jacinto via Deer Springs Trail while my friend put in another day of climbing. I'm somewhat ashamed to admit I had never summit San Jacinto and I was thrilled to be able to ascend a peak of it's stature on all new terrain. It was a great loop.
We climbed a 5.7 five-pitch route called Fingertrip on Friday, which was really fun and heady at times. Climbing a lot more trad and outdoors this year has helped my head game tremendously and it showed on the run-out slab sections of pitch 2 and 5. Last time we climbed out here we had an "epic" and didn't get back to the car until midnight. This time was much different. My plan Saturday was to run an 18.5 mile "lollipop" loop to the top of Mt. San Jacinto via Deer Springs Trail while my friend put in another day of climbing. I'm somewhat ashamed to admit I had never summit San Jacinto and I was thrilled to be able to ascend a peak of it's stature on all new terrain. It was a great loop.
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| Joel leading 3rd pitch |
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| End of route: Final belay from top of 5th pitch |
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| Shelter built by the CCC in 1933. There were four bunks. |
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| One of several USGS markers from the 1800's at the summit of San Jacinto |
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| San Gorgonio (11, 503') from San Jacinto (10,833') |
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| Lily Rock (Tahquitz) coming down from Wellman Divide |
Apr 8, 2018
Zion Traverse
What took one hour and a half by vehicle took eleven hours and forty minutes on foot. What I’m talking about is the spectacular east-west traverse of Zion National Park. By linking fifty miles of existing trails within the park one can connect both ends of the park and complete this journey in a day, if so inclined. That’s what Dave and I set out to do the morning of the seventh of April. Departing a little after first light we set off on the East Rim Trail and meandered our way through unspoiled canyons and colorful mesas. The descent into the Virgin River-carved Zion Canyon transcends time and no matter what century one happens upon it, one cannot help but deeply feel the goodness and beauty of nature. A sense of spiritual belonging overwhelms and a deep happiness results. These are the moments I live for.
After filling up for water at the Grotto the climb resumes past the tourist infested and paved Angel’s Landing trail. Just as quickly it becomes peaceful again and excitement abounds for the unknown territory ahead. After climbing up to the West Rim and Telephone Canyon trail junction, the water flow at Cabin Spring was non-existent so we continued on the West Rim Trail. After passing one or two groups of like-minded folk, though not sure if they could make it all the way (they were succulent), we soon came upon the stunning views of the Great West Canyon. The thin partial cloud cover let in just enough light to stop me in my tracks several times. Another perfect moment. Sadly prying away we continued to Potato Hollow where another pathetic spring failed to materialize. A hot and uninspiring gradual climb out of Horse Pasture Plateau found me mildly desperate for water. A 0.3 mile side trail took us to Sawmill Spring. What a misnomer of a name. Cattle-trampled grass with pockets of water is what constitutes this “spring.” But I was in need of water, unsure of how far the next reliable source was, so I filled my bladder with a mix of water and sediment using Dave’s hard plastic bottle as there was no other way to procure it. Though I haven’t treated water in the backcountry in over ten years I was not confident with this choice, but what is one to do. Fortunately I didn’t drink more than 10-20 ounces as a cold spring in Wildcat Canyon revealed itself and was happily devoured. What fresh spring water can do to the psyche! We continued with renewed vigor and made good time to the Connector Trail which offered splendid views North and South Guardian Angel. Arriving at Hop Valley Trail we took that north through overgrazed cattle land running on beach-like sand. That felt slow and tedious but soon we entered Hop Valley and this narrow grassy valley, surrounded by red cliffs, was a special place. We crossed and re-crossed the same stream a dozen times working our way toward the well lit Kolob Canyon seen ahead in a narrow canyon window. It felt like I was discovering this fairy-tale like region for the first time. Then all at once we left this flat valley and were suddenly climbing amongst trees, with green fern-like plants everywhere. We descended on technical trail to La Verkin Creek and Kolob Canyon. Pleased with the way we were progressing and with the cooler weather, I drank and filled a flask of water straight from the creek (Dave doesn’t drink unfiltered water) and it was slightly mineral tasting I will admit. As I learned later, I should have actually looked for the spring next to the big creek! With the final 6.5 miles upon us we kept a steady running pace as the clouds started to get thicker and darker. We heard rolling thunder off to the west and soon a few drops made their presence felt. Those few drops soon became a steady hard rain with wind. With only several miles left, we kept running steady without wanting to stop to don jackets. The buttes just to the east were partially shrouded in sheets of rain but the beauty of this place couldn’t be truly hidden. I was in awe and I slightly disappointed not to have taken more photos during this section, but with the camera wet, it will have to be preserved in my minds eye. The last mile was sloppy but soon enough arrived at Lee Pass soaked but on a high. It felt like five days wrapped into one and it was hard to believe we started almost 11 hours and 40 minutes ago. It’s a run I’ll never forget.
After filling up for water at the Grotto the climb resumes past the tourist infested and paved Angel’s Landing trail. Just as quickly it becomes peaceful again and excitement abounds for the unknown territory ahead. After climbing up to the West Rim and Telephone Canyon trail junction, the water flow at Cabin Spring was non-existent so we continued on the West Rim Trail. After passing one or two groups of like-minded folk, though not sure if they could make it all the way (they were succulent), we soon came upon the stunning views of the Great West Canyon. The thin partial cloud cover let in just enough light to stop me in my tracks several times. Another perfect moment. Sadly prying away we continued to Potato Hollow where another pathetic spring failed to materialize. A hot and uninspiring gradual climb out of Horse Pasture Plateau found me mildly desperate for water. A 0.3 mile side trail took us to Sawmill Spring. What a misnomer of a name. Cattle-trampled grass with pockets of water is what constitutes this “spring.” But I was in need of water, unsure of how far the next reliable source was, so I filled my bladder with a mix of water and sediment using Dave’s hard plastic bottle as there was no other way to procure it. Though I haven’t treated water in the backcountry in over ten years I was not confident with this choice, but what is one to do. Fortunately I didn’t drink more than 10-20 ounces as a cold spring in Wildcat Canyon revealed itself and was happily devoured. What fresh spring water can do to the psyche! We continued with renewed vigor and made good time to the Connector Trail which offered splendid views North and South Guardian Angel. Arriving at Hop Valley Trail we took that north through overgrazed cattle land running on beach-like sand. That felt slow and tedious but soon we entered Hop Valley and this narrow grassy valley, surrounded by red cliffs, was a special place. We crossed and re-crossed the same stream a dozen times working our way toward the well lit Kolob Canyon seen ahead in a narrow canyon window. It felt like I was discovering this fairy-tale like region for the first time. Then all at once we left this flat valley and were suddenly climbing amongst trees, with green fern-like plants everywhere. We descended on technical trail to La Verkin Creek and Kolob Canyon. Pleased with the way we were progressing and with the cooler weather, I drank and filled a flask of water straight from the creek (Dave doesn’t drink unfiltered water) and it was slightly mineral tasting I will admit. As I learned later, I should have actually looked for the spring next to the big creek! With the final 6.5 miles upon us we kept a steady running pace as the clouds started to get thicker and darker. We heard rolling thunder off to the west and soon a few drops made their presence felt. Those few drops soon became a steady hard rain with wind. With only several miles left, we kept running steady without wanting to stop to don jackets. The buttes just to the east were partially shrouded in sheets of rain but the beauty of this place couldn’t be truly hidden. I was in awe and I slightly disappointed not to have taken more photos during this section, but with the camera wet, it will have to be preserved in my minds eye. The last mile was sloppy but soon enough arrived at Lee Pass soaked but on a high. It felt like five days wrapped into one and it was hard to believe we started almost 11 hours and 40 minutes ago. It’s a run I’ll never forget.
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| Angel's Landing |
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| Great Western Canyon |
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| Wild Turkeys |
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| Hop Valley |
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| Western Terminus |
Jan 1, 2018
Musings 2 and New Years Tradition
I remember when I went out on my first ever solo backpacking trip in 2004. I went alone on an improvised trip of sorts and I remember taking a break on the second day needing to rest my achy shoulders and body. I came upon a spot looking out to an expansive view of the Merced Canyon with the Merced River roaring down below. I looked out on the distant canyon walls, the grandeur, and suddenly a deep sense of loneliness came over me. It was as if human civilization didn't exist and I was alone. I had never had that feeling before, and maybe it's because I was a city boy. It was a frightening feeling and it didn't particularly sit well at the moment. The reality was that I was on a popular trail in Yosemite National Park and although I don't remember seeing anyone that morning there were plenty of backpackers around someplace. Clearly, I was out of my comfort zone.
Baldy on New Years Day has become a tradition of sorts...
Baldy on New Years Day has become a tradition of sorts...
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| Mt. Harwood from Baldy |
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